Lotus Eaters

Sorry no pictures today - no internet connection here.

Remember the story of the Lotus Eaters?? Well I have found a modern version in Little Harbour. At first I thought it was because of Pete's big Birthday party but no these folks have their names engraved in their dilapidated Adirondack chairs which all overlook the bar. Everyone of them had that glazed gaze and it was only 11:30am!! I suspect these folks are here every day. I thought Little Harbour was only reachable via boat but as the festivities wore on - cars and trucks arrived. Little Harbour
is part of the mainland Abaco. Then it became interesting. We saw several familiar faces - hmmm where did we see them before?? Ohh yes Nippers on Great Guana and the JIB room from Marsh Harbour. I wonder what the average life expectancy is of a beach bar alcoholic?? Not too many familiar cruiser faces but then most of the cruisers we have met in the last 6 weeks have all moved on south. A few remain - I guess we need to meet some new ones now - but not here.

Ohh they had a smoked wild pig roast and I had one of those for lunch. Karen had the ginger tuna plate. Not bad for a beach bar but the wait was just TERRIBLE…

Little Harbour was a disappointment. Number one it is difficult to enter in deep draft sail boat. The area around it is most inhospitable. The NE breeze has set up a mean combination of swells and chop that have waves crashing around the entrance…

You guessed it - I chickened out bringing g my boat in today. We decided to stay anchor off Lynyard Cay and dinghy 2.4 miles to Little Harbour.

That ride was a white knuckle ride. Karen did not enjoy it - I did not enjoy it. What can I say - Pete's Pub is okay but not worth a lot of effort to get there. The beach combing was also bad there.

Now on the plus side I got a hair cut today. Karen said she would do my hair if we found a nice beach. Well the beach on Lynyard is nice but small. So we went in this morning and I found an old milk crate to sit on and she cut my hair. Looks good too now and I've left some fine bird nest making material on the beach.

The problems I complained about yesterday are fixed now. I disassembled the intake valve on the head with out removing the pump. Inspected all parts, found nothing amiss, reassembled and it is working now!! Ohh well I'll take credit anyway.

I made a minor adjustment on the "pilot needle valve" on the carburetor of the dinghy motor and it is running better. Note - this is the only adjustable screw on the carburetor.

What to do next?? I don't know - we haven't had such a long string of nice days. I guess we will work that out tonight. It is time to leave this place. There is some great snorkel areas here but the water is 66 degrees and the air temps are barely braking 70 degrees so I'll wait awhile.

VULNERABLE!!

Ohhh yes - not every day is a day in paradise when cruising. We have been very lucky to go for as many days as we have with virtually no issues.

Today our problems are minor but very annoying and must be dealt with. One does not have to look too far to find others with worse - far worse issues. For instance on the radio today we heard bits and pieces of a problem for one of the anchors on the cruising net in the morning. Jeff on Anguirs Wish apparently had a serious heart malady yesterday and he was evacuated to a hospital in Plan Beach - I'll have to find out how that was done so quickly. He apparent is doing okay now.

Then as we were motoring down past Snake Cay on the way to Little Harbor we saw a saw boat being towed north. Damn it was one we know - Froya - I tried to hail them but there was no answer. Just a pair of legs up in the air against the combing of the cockpit - now that has to be dejection there or maybe he was working on his engine.

The trip down was fine but we headed to the ocean cut near Pelican Cays, the swell and wind chop from the ocean "rocked our world". We were not expecting that and a lot of stuff ended on the FLOOR!!

We anchored off of Lynyard Cay near Little Harbour since we cannot get in until high tide. We expect to go in early tomorrow morning - high tide is 6:55am!!

We I used the main head and darn if it will not pump water into the head. I suspected a blockage in the input line. Karen wanted to do some shelling on the beach first so we went into the beach. The Sea of Abaco side is a nice gentle beach but very little shells and sea glass. We tried to get to the ocean side but it is very rough and rocky. A bit disappointed.

As the afternoon wore on more and more boats showed up and anchored here too. There must be 15 boats here now. I suspect some will use this as a jumping off point to the Exumas and others will vie for mooring space in Little Harbour tomorrow. Just our luck we have this great weather window to Little Harbour and it coincides with a big Birthday bash for Pete of Pete's Pub. Man I thought we would have this too ourselves.

Ohhh the other issue. Yikes!! I almost forgot - we heard on the radio this morning that a big ol Sport fisher had sunk at the dock at Harbor View Marina. We went over and took pictures. It was bad because the boat looked to be in pretty nice shape but now its engine(s) and electronics were in salt water. Ohh boy that is bad.

Now my problem. We tried to race back to the boat after the viewing but the dinghy motor will not put us on plane with both in the dinghy. Apparently it is not developing as much power now as it did before the carburetor was rebuilt. Ohhh boy not the end of the world but will really annoy me till corrected.

Tonight should be a great star viewing night. No light pollution and a clear sky expected with little moon. Ohhh yes and no internet connection here.

On the Move Again!!

Finally on the move again. Hopetown was nice but it’s time to see something else.

We left early this morning --7 :30am to catch a part of the high tide to get out of Hopetown then motored to Marsh Harbour. Marsh is not very crowded and several boats left and arrived during the day. Lot’s of folks positioning to head south to the Exumas tomorrow.

We came in to reprovision a bit and get fuel and water then head to the Southern Abacos – mainly Little Harbour.

The forecast is for 4 really nice days so we will be on the way tomorrow.

Today was cool and overcast with a bit of breeze which made it even cooler. So cool that Karen made Chili for dinner tonight.

The grocery store – Price Cutter – was fine. A bit crowded but not too bad. Prices were all over the map though. Some cheaper than GTC and Hopetown – some more expensive.

After shopping I went to Hollywood Georges Conch stand and bought some fine fresh Conch Salad – ummmmm GOOD.

We did a little more shopping this afternoon and Karen bought a game of Dominoes – I guess we are going to learn this game soon.

Picked up some soda from a drinks wholesaler and we are ready.

Tonight is the appetizer pot luck at the Jib room so we will head there before dinner, turn in early, and head out to a new to us part of the Abacos in the morning.

The wind HOWLED!!

WOW – I spoke too soon yesterday. The wind really piped up after 12:30 am -- why always the middle of the night??

It blew strong with gusts to 40 knots till around 2am and then moderated a bit. Today it was nice in the morning then strong in the afternoon but nothing terrible. We heard of no boats that came to grief during the night. Surprisingly it has not yet clocked to the NORTH – just West South-West.

It was cold here today high of only 62 and will plummet to 57 tonight. The radio is full of cautions to bring your pets and plants in tonight – I’m not kidding!!.


We had a nice day in the bright sunshine. Long pants and sweatshirts was all that was needed. Took a couple of walks on the beach and down the beach road for a ways. I saw BTC was working on a phone cable splice box. The cable had blown down into a ditch sometime ago but it was still usable so they worked on it there with no attempt to mount a new pole – Ohhh the Bahamas.

Karen spent a long morning on the beach looking for Sea Glass and found a bunch. I went to the top of the lighthouse to check things out. The wind was strong – almost took your breath away. The Sea of Abaco had white caps but nothing crazy. I saw just one sailboat with sails up and moving this morning in the 20-25 kt wind. Later we heard several boats had staged at Lynards Cay for an early morning departure to Spanish Wells tomorrow. Several more plan to stage tomorrow and leave on Friday. We simply say “Bon Voyage”.

Spent the afternoon reading some and we had the crew from Celtic Cross over for sundowners – Ian, Sharon, Gail, and Rick. A great little visit. I met Ian and Sharon in 2006 when they were here for the first time like me on their boat Pendragon IV. Great folks.

Later we brought the dinghy aboard in preparation of an early departure tomorrow morning. Got to work that tide thing to get out of here.

We plan to just go to Marsh Harbour for the day to reprovision, get water, and maybe fuel – then spend the night on the hook and head to Little harbour on Friday.

Hey it is a plan .

I’ve got to remember to never brag about my water usage with a Canadian cruiser. I said we had used about 100 gallons of water in about 11 days and thought that was great. They had used less than 90 gallons in the same period amongst 4 of them. Boy am I a water waster!! Hmmm maybe it is not me. When on Luna Sea by myself I used about 40 gallons in a week. Noo they still have me beat!!

Weather -- not too bad!!

Well not much to report.. The weather did not get as bad as forecast. It was fairly windy when we went to bed but calmed down over night. Had a bit of wind off and on today with a couple of short rain squalls and that is about it. NO forty knots seen – not even 30 I believe.

We took a long walk on the beach this afternoon and found a bit of “sea glass”. Karen was delighted.

She has had a very nice day. Baked a couple of loaves of bread this morning which have turned out great and is currently cooking some green bananas this afternoon for a treat.

Ohhh the Bingo which is actually called ‘JACKS’ was fun last night albeit we won nothing. The first game was a double jacks where you have to have 2 bingos on one card. The second was the letter X on one card., and the final was you had to fill the perimeter of the card – picture frame. It was still fun and lots of people played.

Tonight will just be a quiet evening on the boat. Everyone is just cooling their heels today it seems.

Ohhh it is going to be COLD here tomorrow… The high will only be 61 degrees. But before you feel too sorry for us the low will only be 59 degrees..

Sorry had to rub it in. Depending on weather tomorrow we will either move over to Marsh Harbour or spend another day here.

Weather Weather Weather

All anyone wants to talk about today is the weather. A pair of cold fronts coming today and tomorrow with the one tomorrow bringing gale conditions. Lots of chatter on the radio of boats all seeking safe harbour - marinas or moorings.

We feel pretty good here in Hopetown. The wind has been blowing 20+ since noon on the Sea of Abaco but just feels very breezy in here. The wind generator is loving it and is actually keeping ahead of our power usage today. Not that we are using that much. The internet has been in and out - mostly out all day. Tonight's blog will be via the SSB radio.

We had a nice easy morning then late morning we went to check out the Laundry Facilities at the Light House Marina here. Not bad. Four washers and 5 dryers and it's $4 a load to wash and $4 to dry. The machines did a pretty good job.

About mid afternoon I checked out the liquor stores for a case of Corona. The access here (store to dinghy) is the shortest anywhere in the Bahamas. At the Liquor store in the village all premium beers is $48 a case but no Corona. At the Light House Liquor store it is $52 but a short walk from store to dinghy. I don't really need any yet since I'm still on my Florida Stock but I bought a case anyway. Hell if Nortel can go bankrupt because of poor management why can't I go "bankrupt" buying beer?!!
Just kidding.

The rest of the afternoon has been spent sipping a couple of cold ones and watching the performance of my riding sail in moderate winds. So far pretty good - I do not get broadside to the wind but I still dance. Tomorrow is STRONG wind will be the full story.

Today 5 SUNSAIL charter boats and one Moorings Charter with a flogging Genoa came in and docked. I wonder if the charter base told them to come back or it was their decision - to morrow should be pretty nasty wind wise.

Tonight we are going out on the town. Over to Captains Jack for Happy Hour, Bingo, and dinner. Don't tell me I don't treat my wife to a good time.

Sorry no pics when using SSB but maybe tomorrows wind event will bring some picture opportunity. You know I'll be on the balcony of the Lighthouse in 40 kt gusts if they will let me!!

The Plans are a Changing

Plans Change.. looking at the revised weather forecast this morning I decided to remain in Hopetown for the next pair of strong cold fronts coming through Monday and Tuesday. The front on Tuesday has actually brought a GALE WARNING for the area. That does not happen often in the Bahamas in winter.

Since the strong winds we encountered this week were barely felt here in Hopetown I suspect this is an excellent place to ride out Gale Force winds. Unfortunately I told our Mooring guy we were leaving today and he promised the mooring to another boat. Fortunately there were still a few available so we took one from “Lucky Strike” the green ones.

Then we just enjoyed a beautiful day. We went on a long dinghy ride both in and out of the harbour. We found the sailboat FOYA anchored just outside and talked them a bit. They are much more adventuresome than I. They were heading down to Snake Cay for the evening then look for a hidehole down there for the blow tomorrow and Tuesday. Sorry to say – not me.. I’ll cling to a mooring here.

We went back to the Lighthouse today and took some great pictures of the marvelous waters around here in bright sunlight. Enjoyed a dinghy race just outside the harbour and walked a few more lanes in Hopetown.

This is a beautiful place full of i9nteresting things that won’t cost you an arm and a leg to enjoy – highly recommend it.

For you sailors -- let me tell you why I decided against Little Harbour today. The entrance to Little Harbour is 3.5 feet at MLW. The cruising guide says you can find 7 feet at high tide. Well I considered that then I have to give credit to Jim on Smiles that you really need to look at the tide data for the particular tide. Well the high tide I would have used today was listed as only 1.9 feet above datum or (3.5 + 1.9 = 5.4 feet) I draw 5.3 feet. If I didn’t hit the entrance on the rising tide at high tide I would not get in – only .1 foot to play with. Then the next High tide wouldn’t be till 2am tomorrow. Tomorrow the winds will all ready be strong by morning. Thus there was no safety margin and a nearly 4 hour ride back to Marsh for Safe Harbour and arriving in the dark tonight – thus the change of plans. That and I do not know how protected the harbour is there – I heard it is good but I know it is good here. Thus the decision.

Enjoy the Pics from today.