Georgia -- Finally!!

We finally made it Georgia!! I swore I wouldn't do Georgia on the inside again but here we are. Never say never!!

The weather is supposed to turn nasty tomorrow with a possible Tropical Low developing offshore of Georgia/Norther Florida so we want to be able to tie up. We made a long run to the Herb River and anchored -- just pass Thunderbolt, GA and I made reservations in their marina for tomorrow and Monday -- maybe Tuesday if this system lingers. Note to you cruisers -- no since in arriving to a Marina late in the day and pay full price -- eh?? I trick I learned from my frugal Canadian cruiser friends. At any rate we are just a few miles from Savannah and I heard there is bus service from the marina to downtown Savannah so we will check it out.

Today was just a taste of the winding, crappy waterway through Georgia. Fortunately we hit the tide right and most of the day was done on 3 hours either side of high tide so we had no problems with the troublesome areas. Hopefully we can keep this schedule through the entire state. The worst is on the next leg -- Hell's Gate. The coast Guard threatened the state to remove the water way markers since there was no channel through there! The state of GA surveyed (note did NOT dredge!) a new channel so temporary markers are there but it is still unusable at low tide. Georgia refuses to dredge the channel and will soon become effectively impassable.

Ohhh last night we went into Beaufort to see all the Halloween shenanigans that might be going on. Heck they rolled up the side walks at 8:30pm!!! There was NOTHING. We walked by all the popular restaurants on the waterfront and they each had only 2 to 5 tables filled... What gives??

Back to the boat and prepared for an early departure the next day. I was very disappointed in the goings on in Beaufort, SC. Gosh it was actually a Friday night for Halloween.. Can't believe it. Apparently just not observed like Memorial Day. Just a Northern Holiday I guess.

Hopefully a quiet night and into the marina early tomorrow before the storm gets here. Ohhh Herb River --- Excellent anchorage. Plenty of room and good holding.

I added a few photos of the Herb River from our anchorage point.

Halloween in Beaufort, SC

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Just can’t leave this place!! The weather has been perfect but a bit cool – cold in the mornings.

Had to run the Genset again this morning to charge the batteries and hey -- why not run the Heat Pumps too!! Toasty in 20 minutes again! It's great when it all works but for how long?? It is a boat.

Today we did some major food foraging – not that either of us needs more food but because we wanted to. We took the dinghy over under the Swing Bridge to a public ramp just across from Green 3 on Factory Creek. Tied up there then walked East for a long while!!. We made the first traffic light – about a ¼ mile and no grocery store there, but some oriental food shops, antiques, bikes, etc. We looked for another folding bike there but only one $500 26 Montague available. We passed and walked another ¼ mile to the next traffic light and there was a Publix Grocery store on the left. Across from it is a Walgreens and we passed both a hardware store and a Rite Aid on the way. Now this was certainly a very long walk for us so I would recommend bikes to other cruisers.

The Publix was excellent – lots of a variety but what can I carry in a Back Pack?? Ohh maybe some Peroni Beer – I really wanted the local Blue Crab Beer but none was to be had, and some other must have items – cheeses and fresh meat. Ohhh it was a longer walk back to the dinghy. At any rate we know what is there and it is better than what you will find in Beaufort Proper.

After some lunch and soaking our feet we went on another foraging quest to the “Chocolate Tree”. We had received some free chocolate coupons while on the tour yesterday and so today we went to collect the freebies and buy some chocolates – like what Forrest Gump bought in the movie. Did you know most of that movie was filmed here!! In fact there have been 51 major pictures filmed here like, Great Santini, Big Chill, Prince of Tides, and more.

The Chocolate Tree is a must stop. Even if you don’t like Chocolate they have the largest collection and quantities of Jelly Bellies I have ever seen. I had to get some Sours for sure.

On the way back I took the 2 photos of the 1000 year old Oak Tree in front of the “Castle”. Note in the first one it is flanked by a Palmetto tree.

Back on the boat for Peroni and Dark Chocolate -- well maybe not at the same time. Tonight we plan on cooking some home made Blue Cheese burgers on the grill and later head to town and walk around to see the “Adult Halloween Costumes”.

Tomorrow we are underway again and Georgia is the destination..

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Tourista for a day and mobile target

We did some foraging for food and the Touritsta thing today. I’ve never taken a formal tour of Beaufort, SC so this afternoon I plucked down the ol credit card and we mounted up on a horse drawn carriage and did the town. Very interesting listening to the history and stories about the old homes here. Most stories were around the civil war but a few predated it.

The most interesting things to me where the ancient oak trees. They have some here that university experts say are more than 1000 years old. Then there is the “angel oak” which I attached a picture of – very interesting and reputed to have healing powers.

It was enjoyable and the weather nearly perfect except still a bit cool in the low 60s with a nice breeze running. And Oh yes – at 40 degrees this morning the batteries needed charging and I just as well run both heat pumps off the genset.. Toasty in 20 minutes or less!!

Foraging for food?? I just unfolded my folding bicycle and took off for a Piggly Wiggly at the edge of town. Simple fair but palatable – really didn’t need much but the produce was going bad and needed fresh replacement. The only detraction is trying to ride a bicycle in traffic here. These here folks have NO respect for a bicycliston . You need to be double alert and anticipate bone headed maneuvers by the drivers. They act like they are spooked when a bicycle is coming, and rather than wait will dart or turn at the last minute!!

I was going to ride to the other side of town but then I was “spooked” by the time I got back to the Marina.

Not sure about tomorrow. Decisions decisions. May stay another day may leave for Herb River anchorage in Georgia.

I’ll consult the mermaid tonight.

BEAU-fort, South Carolina

Beaufort, SC is a must stop. A very pretty town with some excellent restaurants and an unbelievable revitalized water front. Ohh the Swing benches are just great to idle some time away in and the view is spectacular,.

Not too crowded in the anchorage today. We saw at least 3 sailboats leave as we approached the Lady Island Swing Bridge to enter the anchorage this morning. I guess everyone is moving fast to head south and escape this cold. However, this cold mass was MASSIVE. It was 40 degrees in Miami !!

Ohhh this morning – it was C O L D!! Even by northern standards. It was 37 degrees at 6:30am. I tried the alcohol heater but it was only 54 degrees by 8:00 am. I’m sitting at the computer wrapped in a blanket. “Too hell with this” I said. I do have the means to overcome this so I opened the seacocks to the Genset and Heat pumps and fired it up. I needed to charge batteries too. Well to make a long story short – it was 74 degrees in the boat by 8:20am.

We headed to the waterfront for the 10am bridge opening. I was the second in line of sailboats to pass through. Once the bridge opened a 50-foot sail boat charged the line at flank speed and past by me –“ hey you can have it” – I’m here for pleasure. What was his hurry?>?>? Ohhh a NJ boat and just had to be first at the anchorage field. Well hey – plenty of room wise guy!

Because of the deliberate slow advance on the bridge this morning we had plenty of HOT water. So it was showers immediately after dropping the hook. Which even though was in 28 feet of water – stuck first try.

After refreshed and smelling not bad we headed to town and had a FINE pizza at the restaurant PANNI’S. Great Pizza.. Buck will remember this place as the one we had lunch at after coming in from offshore when we delivered Temptation from Vero Beach to North Carolina in August 2007.

Back to the boat to read some tourist guides then back to town to walk some of the historic district.. I think we will take a guided tour on the GHOST walk tomorrow – it is almost Halloween you know.

Should be a comfortable night here with light wind and good separation between the boats.

PUSSY CAT

Ahhh good day to be like a Pussy Cat. It was cold here this morning. Had to drag out the ol alcohol heater to take the chill off. Once the sun got up to a reasonable level (about 10:30am) the cockpit began to warm up. The Pussy Cat part – sit in the sun and nap – when did you last do that?? A real luxury especially after the tough day yesterday. We have now named the enclosure the “Green House”. Not only is the enclosure Green Sunbrella but it gets toasty warm up there with direct sunlight. We are thinking seriously of adopting a "pet plant" now.

We just hung on the hook today and relaxed reading and doing some light work. The internet connection is great here. There are some free WiFi from the adjacent houses but I’m using a Verizon Broadband Air card. I also have a TriBand Cellular antenna at the top of my 57-foot mast to give it a boost. Verizon has been great since we left Eastern NC. Verizon has VERY POOR service in Eastern North Carolina!!

I just added a couple of pictures to show the extreme tidal range here – 7.6 feet and another to give the feel of Factory Creek.

After swinging through a couple of tidal switches and the moderate winds here putting some shock load on the anchor – a 66lb Lewmar Claw (a Bruce wannabe) I declare the holding here very good.

Well time to go find some cat nip.

TORTURE!!

Ohhh it was a long anxious run today 51.7 nm to be exact. We wanted to make near Beaufort, SC to anchor for the night. First choice was Brickyard Creek. There is a strong cold front coming with lots of wind but no rain. We needed protection and want to be in before the winds build.

We left early 7:30am to hit most of the trouble spots near high tide. That plan worked fine till we approached the Ashapoo Coosaw Cutoff for the Coosaw River. It was then 3 hours past high tide and the boats ahead were claiming anything from 10 feet to 4.5 feet near the entrance G177. We found 8 foot minimum when we went through. Then all hell broke loose. Half way through the cut at the narrowest point we encounter two north bound barges.. There was one boat in front me – we both slowed down and stopped to let the barges pass through. Then 3 idiots in power boats move in on my starboard side and block my ability to head that direction to get away from the barges. What butt heads!! Fortunately nothing bad happened but it was close

This cut would have been a real problem at low tide. Had low water when we came out too – 7 foot near G185.

Then on to the Coosaw River. Conditions were still mild at 10 – 12 kts SW. After about 4 miles the wind clocked to WNW and built to 17 – 22 with lots of white caps. Fortunately wind and current were together so no big waves built. However, current and wind against us had the SOG down to only 3.7 kts. Ohhh it was torture to move so slow. We just pressed on and only took one wave with spray on the dodger. In fact most of the trip was with current against us so it was a slow travel day. The price you have to pay when running the better part of the day around HIGH tide.

When we got to Brickyard Creek it was near low tide. It didn’t look too protected and was going to be very tricky to enter. I’ve never anchored here or Factory Creek before.
We pushed on to Factory Creek. Don’t believe the tale of a deep water channel at the entry – we found only 6 feet for awhile. It’s low tide now.

We went pretty deep to find a spot to swing on one anchor. Even then my closest approach to a docked sport fisher is only 75 feet but hey might as well be a mile huh??? No it will be a restless night tonight.

With the high winds predicted till late tomorrow we will just stay put here (I hope), then move in and anchor on the Beaufort waterfront in mild conditions on Wednesday. Well it’s a plan at least.

Good to be leaving Charleston

Ahhh good to be on the move again. “Ships and men soon rot in port”.

Charleston is nice but the Mega Dock with all those MEGA yachts is just tough to take. Theirs is an existence far removed from our situation.

The departure today was going to be difficult. The current was roaring from ahead and I would have to perform a maneuver to either motor into the current and let it carry me backwards between a couple of million dollar boats and marginal control, or wait till near slack tide and then pull from the dock and turn around and leave in a lesser current. I opted for the second option but the dockmasters cautioned me not to try and turn around in this limited area amongst all these high dollar boats. Hmmmm I thought I would try the drift back option. Once away from the dock the charge and turn maneuver beckoned me so I did. Much to the aghast faces of the 2 dock hands on the pier who let go my lines. The maneuver worked very well and I didn’t come close to any boat and felt in full control the whole e time.

We then reentered the ICW and made the 12:30 opening of the Wappoo Creek Bridge. Then Elliot’s cut – ohhh she was a roaring in our faces. It is a narrow cut that empties into the Ashley river. We hit about 1 hour before slack tide and still had a 5 KT current against us. The best I did with even the Turbo running was 3 kts against the current.

The rest of the time was a slow slog through shallow waters until we reached Church Creek. I have never anchored here before but I would highly recommend it in any conditions but a strong west wind. Very wide, holding is excellent – the anchor set IMMEDIATELY on deployment, but a bit buggy if warm.

It’s warm this afternoon but I understand it will be cool if not cold the rest of the week. Yesterday there was a very favorable weather forecast for the whole week but now they are predicting Gale conditions possibly Wednesday and Thursday. Wind picks up tomorrow afternoon and we have to run the entire length of the ICW across the Coosaw River (about 15 miles) tomorrow. We will get an early start then look for an all weather anchorage – either the Brickyard or Factory Creek. Charleston broke the bank so it’s on the hook for awhile now.